This was sent to me to publish. At the bottom we describe our own Hip Stick that we made also but this can be followed also. The original inventor of this who sells them now commercially also published how he made it a few years back on one of the US Forums (can't remeber which). I haven't actually checked the spelling or grammer and is original on how I received the article so I apologise for any errors.


I found the use of a Hip-stick very good and it took a lot of stress off my arm and resulted in me being able to detect for a longer period and with a lot more comfort. I was given a loan of one to try and loved it; I was prepared to get myself one. When I discovered the price I was absolutely shocked. The obvious step was to make my own and I was surprised to find how simple it is to do. Takes about an hour to knock up and there is nothing too technical about it. I thought I would share this DIY project with others who may also find satisfaction in making something for themselves. If you prefer to purchase one rather than make your own I think you will find many benefits in using such a devise when detecting. Good luck tinkering I hope I can keep this simple for you.

(Photo Above) Closest item to Camera is a commercially available product …$ lots. The next two items in picture are home made items … $ Bugger all.

What is the idea of a Hip-stick? Quite simply it is useful in minimizing the weight on the arm carrying the detector without restricting the side to side motion common with the use of a metal detector. Does it work? Yes very well.


How do you use it? The bulky or blunt end attaches to your belt (or harness belt) about level with your pointy hip bone or inline with the vertical center of your thigh. The pointy end, clips to the D ring on your harness (Where you would normally clip the detectors bungee cord) Your bungee cord then clips to the D ring on the Hip-stick. Make sure you do your bungee up tight enough that it just keeps the detector off the ground. This way when you slide you arm in the holder on your detector, the balance and control should be about perfect.What bits and pieces do you need to make it? (See photo below)



You may find bits and pieces around your shed that suit better; the above is what I had around to do the Job. (A man needs a shed)


The carbon shaft was purchased from an archery store (makes two hip-sticks) approx 10ml diameter. It is hollow so I placed a wall plug in the end before adding the ball / bead. Glue the wall plug in first then glue the ball on to the shaft.Pre drill ball first, be careful not to go right through (about half way).


Sit that aside now and let it dry/cure. I used a timber bead however a solid plastic ball would be ideal. The acorn curtain rod end seemed to be a good fit for the bead I had, so it became the socket. In the photo you will see a black texter mark … cut that nipple off. The other end is fluted so cut it off as well at the widest point which should be the shoulder of the acorn.


Get a piece of flat plastic about 5 inches long (I got a small bit from Bunning’s) Mark it off in two sections … What I used was 5inch long 2inch wide and ¼ thick. In other words put a line across it 2 inch from one end. This is where it will bend. Mark the center now of that 2inch square … you need to drill a hole there about 25 mm. (I used a splade for this) do this before bending or after it’s no big deal. I did it after. Boil the jug and put some hot water in a mug, stand the plastic in the hot water to make bending a bit easier. Place the plastic in a vice and bend it on your mark. Be careful not to burn yourself and get the missus to make you a coffee while the kettle is hot :). Once it is bent into shape drop it in cold water. Make the hole now, glue in the ready cut acorn socket. Use plenty of Araldite underneath. The acorn socket should not be able to go through the hole. The picture below shows the finished socket and mount. (Sanded corners & painted)


See how the socket sits proud (important not to drill hole to large) the reason the tip or nipple has been cut off the acorn is so water and crap does not sit in the socket. In the photo you can see small holes drilled in what is now the back plate. My reason to do this is because I will use a string to stitch it to the harness belt. Also note here that a simple hair tie works to keep the shaft from wandering. (Thank you kids) Now the top section and you are almost done.



The clip and D ring can be purchased from any upholstery or camping shop, I got mine off an old airline bag that was hanging in the shed. (Phew, good thing I didn’t throw that out last time the old girl made me clean up :)) The blue webbing came off a broken ratchet strap. You know them cheap tie down straps you get at Super-cheap. Or I guess you could get a bit from the camping store.


Putting a hole through it was the hardest part so I used the soldering iron. (hot) Before I actually put this on the stick I glued the second wall plug to that orange cap. I don’t know what they came off but they were in the shed. I think they are some sort of

blank end for electrical wiring. Anyway … glue the wall plug and this cap together and let it cure. Once dry coat the exposed part of the wall plug with glue and slide it through the webbing and into the shaft. Using five minute araldite I was careful and made sure

the webbing never stuck fast. I allow the webbing to spin or move, so while it was curing I moved the webbing around a bit to make sure it was free. Underneath the webbing I just placed a few raps of tape so it does not work its way down the shaft. On the second effort I glued a hard plastic piece under the webbing for the same purpose and I think it works better. You would be wise to do the same. Well that’s it, Bobs your uncle … actually these days Bob could be your Aunty but lets not go there. I hope I haven’t been to long winded for you, I guess the pictures may be self explanatory but hey, I’m just a Detecting nut.


Above photo: the two on the left are home made and the one on the right is a borrowed store bought Hip-stick. All work perfect.

Note: shaft may need to be longer if you are tall. Hope this helps with your detecting efforts. Good hunting.

Just as an addendum to this article we made our own following the information given on MSN-Goldetecting Forum. It looks similar to the one on the right and the bottom piece (Ball section) can be purchased from Bunnings and is used for carrying power tools on a belt. The shaft we bought from any camping store and is just a fibreglass tent support. A tip is to glue the fibreglass into the ball using Araldite or some other epoxy glue and then put your gear on and set the length of the pole to be just slightly (1-2") above the positon on your harness where you clip the bungee cord to the detector. Most of the above instructions can be followed for this Hip Stick and our toal price was around AUD$18.

Have fun, Ismael